Mapping Fashion Savoir-Faire : Craft, Space and Scale 16th - 21st centuries
International conference
Sessions and workshops in French and English
Keynote speakers: Mei Mei Rado (Bard Graduate Center, New York), Ulinka Rublack (Cambridge University), El Hadji Malick N’Diaye (Université Cheik Anta Diop / IFAN, Dakar)
Program
DAY ONE Thursday 11th December
Institut Français de la Mode. Quai d'Austerlitz. Auditorium
8h45 — Registration and coffee
9h15 — Welcome and introduction
9h30-10h30 — Keynote address
Chair: Ariane Fennetaux (Université Sorbonne-Nouvelle)
Mei Mei Rado (Bard Graduate Center), Cross-cultural Savoir-faire and Remaking: Transformations of Chinese Skirts into Western Fashion
Break
10h45-11h45 — Colonial and post colonial crafts
Pierre Jean Desemerie (Bard Graduate Center/ Musée des Arts Décoratifs) "Moderniser” la Chebka (dentelle algérienne) en période coloniale
Pragya Sharma (University of Brighton) “Everyone will praise you”: Fashioning the Knitted Self in Twentieth-century India
Lunch break
13h-14h30 — Interlocking networks and scales
Miriam Fleck-Vidal (McGill University), French Silk. Global Networks: Negotiating National Identity through Silk Production in Early Modem France
Tristan Dot (University of Cambridge), Nineteenth-century Textile Design Studios as Nodes of Visual Circulation
Victoria De Lorenzo (London College of Fashion, University of London), Crafting a Culturally-Situated Demand: A Microhistory of Market Sub-Segmentation in Chile and Peru between 1845 -1855
Break
14h45-15h45 — In conversation with
Laetitia Baqué et Victor Molinié (Baqué-Molinié embroidery workshop) Embroidering between Paris and India
Break
16h-17h30 — Transnational circulations
Kirsty Hassard (V&A, Dundee), Tartan: Mapping Craft, Space and Scale in Scotland and Beyond
Antonia Behan (Queen’s University), The Texture of Nationalism and Transnational Handweaving Revival
Elena Kanagy Loux (Bard Graduate Center), Interlacing the Globe: Mapping the Magdalena Nuttall Lace Collection
DAY TWO Friday I2th December
Institut Français de la Mode. Quai d'Austerlitz. Auditorium
8h45 - Coffee
9h-10h — Keynote address
Chair: Anne Marie Miller-Blaise (Université Sorbonne Nouvelle)
Ulinka Rublack (University of Cambridge), The Triumph of Fashion. A Global History
Break
10h15-11h15 — Resources and techniques - from local to global
Marie Colas des Francs (EPIIE), Le voyage des plumes : provenance des matériaux et des techniques
de la plumasserie parisienne autour de 1600
Jean-Alexandre Perras (IZEA. Martin-Luther Universität, Halle-Wittenberg), Technical Expertise in Eighteenth-century Women's Hairstyling : the Case of Rouen
Break
11h30-13h Colonial couture
Khemais Ben Lakhdar (Université Paris I-Panthéon Sorbonne), Une jubla parsie devenue dernier cri de la mode à Paris : itinéraire d’une tunique brodée entre la Chine, l’Inde et la maison Paul Poiret dans un contexte colonial
Tokiko Sumida (Université Toulouse Jean Jaurès), L'art du savoir-faire du kimono et la résistance spatiale : du japonisme aux innovations contemporaines en France
Chiara Faggella (The Daniel and Gayle D’Aniello Syracuse University Program in Florence), Beyond the Tourist Gaze: Colonial Legacies and Spatial Entanglements in the Making of Italian Fashion
Lunch break
14h30-15h30 In conversation with
Caroline Perdrix et Alexia Tronel (Itinérances) Cantillana. nouer pour célébrer / Cantillana, Knotting as a Way to Celebrate
Break
15h45-16h45 — Geographies of re-use
Miki Sugiura (Hosei University, Tokyo - University of Antwerp), Mapping Savoir-Faire in the Circulation of Second-Hand Kimono in Early Modem Japan
Estelle Dupuis (Paris 1 Panthéon Sorbonne- IFM), Wears and tears in Fashion: Between Authentic and Faux, Paradoxical Aesthetic Circulations in a Context of Environmental Crisis
Break
17h-18h — In conversation with
Aska Yamashita (Atelier Montcx), Embroidering between France and Japan
DAY THREE Saturday I3th December
INHA. Galerie Colbert. Salle Vasari (First floor)
9h Coffee
9h30-10h30 — Keynote address
Chair: Emilie Hammen (Paris I Panthéon Sorbonne/Palais Galliera)
Malick N'Diaye (Cheik Antia Diop/ IFAN. Dakar), Le musée sur le fil
Break
10h45-11h45 — Museums and decentered narratives
Pierre-Antoine Vettorello (Antwerp Research Institute for the Arts), Decentering the Fashion Museum: Colonial Lcgacics and Indigenous Voices in French Fashion History
Chiara Tuani (École du Louvre), Tositea Moala Hoatau Broutin et le tapa : transmission des savoir-faire d'Uvéa et de Futuna en Nouvelle-Calédonie
Fashion, Material Knowledge & the Museum is a collaborative project linking Université Sorbonne Nouvelle & Université Paris I Panthéon-Sorbonne. Supported by Sorbonne Alliance, the project seeks to explore the latest research in material culture in dress and fashion while questioning their impact in curatorial practices and the museum.